When we pulled up a the shop shop we noticed a different sign explaining that the workshop actually opened at 8am not 10am. Oh well, nice lie in! We siad hello and after asking my most frequently asked question, 'Do you speak English?' the mechanic tottered off to fetch someone who could. A nice young chap came came nack with him and quickly assured us they'd be able to help (not that we'd doubted the fact, we were in a bike workshop after all) - the workshop was impressive and both mechanics had rows of bikes waiting to be seen to.
I decided to opt for another pricey tyre considering the possiblility of more punctures and the fact that I'd be forced to kick myself if a cheaper one failed me later on. If the expensive one lets me down I'll just get Hana to write one of her letters to Schwalbe and hope that they send us a lifetimes suppply...Within 20 minutes we were on our way (following comliments from the young chap on Hana's, 'Very good old bike.') trying once again to make our way out of an average sized town with a crap map - infuriating! But, with fresh air in our tyres we were feeling confident and looking forward to more costal-ish cycling.
If you haven't looked at a map of Sweden yet I urge you! In particular, the SE/E coast where we are. It is quite simply mind bogglingly wonderful! As you will see on your map (or google earth!), there are lots of islands. Actually, not lots but millions, perhaps even trillions - look at them all! The most amazing coastline you ever did see? You may at this point also like to take note of how far from Stockholm we still are. This counrty is massive. This morning, looking at the maps Hana casually said about the rest of our journey, 'Its just like doing all of England and the Netherlands again really.' Great.
We hugged this beautiful cold coastline to a tiny peninsular on which the village of Kolboda sits. A few days ago during our panic in Kristianstad the woman in the Tourist Office (helpful though she was) had assured us that the hostel marked on the map was closed at this time of year. Instead, she'd given us details of a campsite with huts (yay!) that was open but a tad on the pricey side. As we pootled in to the sleepy little village and caught glimipse of the gawdy camspite we peddled on in search of the hostel - just to check.
Right at the end of the road next to the sign warning cars not to drive in to the sea was a very hostel-like building, 'Välkommen till Kolbodagärden.' Hana hopped off and squashed her face against the glass door, 'It looks like a hostel,' she said as a man appeared from behind the glass. Well, well, well a hostel it was and very welcome we were! Excellent, we don't have to stay in the overpriced over the top campsite!
Kolbodagärden really was in the most beautiful little spot and because we'd made it there by 3pm there was loads of daylight left for an evening stroll (we've taken to strolling of an evening in an attempt to avoid 'cyclist's walk' or 'cyclist's waddle as it should be known). We wandered through the trees and peered in to all the vacant summer houses - agreeing that a Swedish summer house would be a fine thing to aim for in life. Back at the hostel we decided that now was the time to do it...we had to get our feet in the water!
Until now, despite lots of coast hugging in all countries we haven't got our feet wet (let alone swam). Before we set off on this trip I had visions of us jumping in to lakes every five minutes to cool off and evening swims in the sea. Pah! What on earth was I thinking? It's October IN SWEDEN, this is the Baltic sea and it's very cold. Anyway, the feet went in but only up to the ankles and I can assure that was enough. Although only our feet were in the whole experience was somehow mind numblingly cold - how do all the lovely swans that surround us stay warm? So that was it, out first brush with the Swedish waters. The same waters we will one day swim in - when we have our very own summer house (in summer).
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