Two girls and their mum
Hooray Sally and Zoe are here too!
Swedish apple cake courtest of Sophie and Rupert!
Thursday 4 November 2010
Tuesday 2 November 2010
Day 31 - In the words of Lloyd Christmas, 'We're there!'
Erm, we've done it.
We're here, in Stockholm. I never say this, but OMG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
We got to the centre with some helpful directions from a handsome man impressed by our efforts (he was riding a bike of course) at 1pm. Yeeeee-haaaaaa!
Celebratory pasta leftovers!!!!!!!!!!!!
Don't really know what else to say at this point - we're at the airport now waiting to surprise the wonderful Mumphie-don (mum)!
Thank you so much for reading. We hope you've enjoyed keeping up with us, there'll be a bit more to follow in the way of photos when we can (be bothered)!
Huge huge thanks if you have sponsored us - as of today you have donated over 3,500 pounds which is totally totally brilliant - we can't say thank you enough. The MS Society will be pleased.
So we're going to have a party for a few days here in Stockholm, will tell you aaaaalllllll about it when we get home xxx
Must dash, mum's plane is landing....
With lots and lots of love,
Sylvie and Hana
The Cycling Sisters
Hej da...
We're here, in Stockholm. I never say this, but OMG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
We got to the centre with some helpful directions from a handsome man impressed by our efforts (he was riding a bike of course) at 1pm. Yeeeee-haaaaaa!
Don't really know what else to say at this point - we're at the airport now waiting to surprise the wonderful Mumphie-don (mum)!
Thank you so much for reading. We hope you've enjoyed keeping up with us, there'll be a bit more to follow in the way of photos when we can (be bothered)!
Huge huge thanks if you have sponsored us - as of today you have donated over 3,500 pounds which is totally totally brilliant - we can't say thank you enough. The MS Society will be pleased.
So we're going to have a party for a few days here in Stockholm, will tell you aaaaalllllll about it when we get home xxx
Must dash, mum's plane is landing....
With lots and lots of love,
Sylvie and Hana
The Cycling Sisters
Hej da...
Day 30 - One more sleep..................
I checked the watch again, it was still not even 4am and I was wide awake, not really suprising as I was asleep by 7pm the night before. I was so cosy in my 2 layers of thermals and my sleeping bag that by the time 6am rolled around and Sylv woke up I didn't want to get out of bed. At about 4.30 I thought I had heard Sylv crying and when I asked her if she was awake she said yes, are you crying? No, and she was asleep again. Later that day she told me that she thought maybe she had been crying in her sleep as she had dreamnt that 3 golden screws had screwed themsleves into her tyre giving her constant punctures. the puncture thing is really getting to her, fingers crossed we don't have anymore.
Sun coming up in the morning
Anyway after breakfast and several cups of tea on the Trangia (we had a lot of fuel left) we set off. Today was going to be a LONG one, we were heading for................................
the suburbs of Stockholm.
When we arrived in Sweden we had worked out that if we pushed hard and didn't have days off at Astrid Lindgrens Värld and if nothing went wrong we may, just may hit Stockholm in time to suprise our mum by meeting her off the plane. This thought kept both of us going when we were feeling tired and today was the day to make it happen.
We left by 8.30, brrrrrr it was cold again and very grey and drizzling but we hammered it and managed to do 20 miles in 1.5 hours. Not bad when our panniers our super heavy.
On and on we pressed. not wanting to stop as we knew we had to reach Tumba before the light faded, then, there it was silhoutted against the dark grey sky, another Elk. Oh yeah. We think this one was a lady Elk as it was smaller than the other one. We watched her scamper accross the road and lithley leap over the electric fences and off into the woods. Utterly wonderful creatures.
We had to cross a big estuary today but it wasn't clear from the map how we were going to do it, so you can imagine my joy when we got there and it was a ferry crossing. Hooray.
It was lovely and the sun had come out. We crossed and had our lunch on the other side looking out over the estuary full of little islands, bliss.
Right, let's get back on it. Time was running out and the light was beggining to fade as we rode down the hill to Tumba. Oh my goodness today has been hilly and our legs were killing us. Then we got very lost for about an hour, we just couldn't find the right road and went up (and back down) several different steep hills trying to find our way out. Eventually we did and found ourselves on the worlds busiest road at rush hour, so this is where all the cars are. We stuck to the edge and luckilly after a few km we found our turning and road up to a mansion.
The hostel was round the back in an out house, but boy was it pure luxury. It even had a free washing machine which we took full advantage of. The receptionist Pia was lovely and was really pleased to see us. She told us that the mansion used to belong to Lars Ericsson (you will know him from the Sony Ericsson phones).
We cooked up and had a celebratory weak beer and although we had planned to stay up late we were tucked up in bed by 8.30. We are so so nearly there........................................
Miles today 65-70
Anyway after breakfast and several cups of tea on the Trangia (we had a lot of fuel left) we set off. Today was going to be a LONG one, we were heading for................................
the suburbs of Stockholm.
When we arrived in Sweden we had worked out that if we pushed hard and didn't have days off at Astrid Lindgrens Värld and if nothing went wrong we may, just may hit Stockholm in time to suprise our mum by meeting her off the plane. This thought kept both of us going when we were feeling tired and today was the day to make it happen.
We left by 8.30, brrrrrr it was cold again and very grey and drizzling but we hammered it and managed to do 20 miles in 1.5 hours. Not bad when our panniers our super heavy.
On and on we pressed. not wanting to stop as we knew we had to reach Tumba before the light faded, then, there it was silhoutted against the dark grey sky, another Elk. Oh yeah. We think this one was a lady Elk as it was smaller than the other one. We watched her scamper accross the road and lithley leap over the electric fences and off into the woods. Utterly wonderful creatures.
We had to cross a big estuary today but it wasn't clear from the map how we were going to do it, so you can imagine my joy when we got there and it was a ferry crossing. Hooray.
It was lovely and the sun had come out. We crossed and had our lunch on the other side looking out over the estuary full of little islands, bliss.
Right, let's get back on it. Time was running out and the light was beggining to fade as we rode down the hill to Tumba. Oh my goodness today has been hilly and our legs were killing us. Then we got very lost for about an hour, we just couldn't find the right road and went up (and back down) several different steep hills trying to find our way out. Eventually we did and found ourselves on the worlds busiest road at rush hour, so this is where all the cars are. We stuck to the edge and luckilly after a few km we found our turning and road up to a mansion.
The hostel was round the back in an out house, but boy was it pure luxury. It even had a free washing machine which we took full advantage of. The receptionist Pia was lovely and was really pleased to see us. She told us that the mansion used to belong to Lars Ericsson (you will know him from the Sony Ericsson phones).
We cooked up and had a celebratory weak beer and although we had planned to stay up late we were tucked up in bed by 8.30. We are so so nearly there........................................
Miles today 65-70
Day 29 - Meetings with remarkable creatures
We left Söderkoping (or however you spell it, nevermind pronounce it, 'Sooodeurshurping' I believe) in a bit of a rush so didnt't really have time to take in the full beauty of this medieval town but even just on a passing visit it it definately my favourite town so far - totally Swedish.
The weather, though a bit dam, has definately warmed up and as we are finally beginning to near Stockholm we've talked about camping again. Today's the day! Let's do it, let's free camp! We left town in search of the next of 'Köping' towns, Nyköping. Along they way we've been in touch, mostly by text with lots of family and friends including the wonderful Aunty Marion and Uncle John. They've done so much to help us along, particularly setting us up with Lotte and the gang in Copenhagen. We knew M&J were arriving in Sweden today, for a little holiday to see their friends in the south and then later to join us in Stockholm so we exchanged secret texts with John (so Marion wouldn't realise) in the morning and planned a rough rendezvous....somewhere on a road, near a small town, near Nyköping at some point after lunch. It was all pretty vague.
Following a nice morning ride and a little ferry crossing over a stretch of water who's name escapes me we were whizzing along that road, near that small town, near Nyköping and by my watch, although we hadn't yet stopped for our lunch, it was well, after lunch. HA! There they are!!!!!! Speeding towards us they there were in their hire car, Aunty Marion and Uncle John - yes!!!!!!!!!! John is a keen driver and travels many miles through Europe regularly, I knew he'd find us! Marion's face was a picture - she had no idea!
Saw our FIRST sign for Stockholm today - at last!
They pulled in to the layby and Marion in her truely generous style pulled from her bag a bottle o' Bells and a huge Toblerone! We all enjoyed a warming swig and basically just giggle for about 5 minutes before having a proper catch up. We hung out in the layby for about 10mins in the chilly wind begore M&J got back on the road al the way down to Kivik to stay with their friends. They would be drving about the distance we have cycled in Sweden in about 5 hours - hmmmmmmm. So, thank you wonderful M&J - you totally made our day!
So excited by this brilliant pick-us-up we sauntered through Nyköping in search of a spot to free camp on the other side, somewhere nice by the sea. The clocks went back last night so the light would be fading by about 3.30pm today. better stop sauntering and get on with it. Good job we were sauntering I say because who should we see next on the other side of the road....
An ELK!!!!!! Yes, finally we've seen! Ever since we got to Sweden we've been looking out for one and so far have only seen one beware of Elk road sign never mind the real thing. The lovely big thing was just mooching around in some reeds down by the sea, his big horns silouhetted by the half light - wow. Just we were frantically rumaging for the camera some stupid cars whizzed by and trotted off quick as a flash in to the trees. Yay - so glad we saw one though.
Oh, I'm not sure if i want to free camp now, what if an elk tries to eat our tent! We travelled on to our preferred spot on the map, a little place called Horn and when we approached we saw a campsite sign! A-ha! So, we didn't quite free camp but we did get the old tent again (much to the campsite owners horror) and we were in a very lovely sucluded spot, just by the sea. It was totally and utterly dark by 4.30pm so we enjoyed our dindins in the dark and were tucked up in our sleeping bags by 6pm. Ridiculous!
Making dinner in the DARK at 4.30pm
We cycled 55 miles today.
The weather, though a bit dam, has definately warmed up and as we are finally beginning to near Stockholm we've talked about camping again. Today's the day! Let's do it, let's free camp! We left town in search of the next of 'Köping' towns, Nyköping. Along they way we've been in touch, mostly by text with lots of family and friends including the wonderful Aunty Marion and Uncle John. They've done so much to help us along, particularly setting us up with Lotte and the gang in Copenhagen. We knew M&J were arriving in Sweden today, for a little holiday to see their friends in the south and then later to join us in Stockholm so we exchanged secret texts with John (so Marion wouldn't realise) in the morning and planned a rough rendezvous....somewhere on a road, near a small town, near Nyköping at some point after lunch. It was all pretty vague.
Following a nice morning ride and a little ferry crossing over a stretch of water who's name escapes me we were whizzing along that road, near that small town, near Nyköping and by my watch, although we hadn't yet stopped for our lunch, it was well, after lunch. HA! There they are!!!!!! Speeding towards us they there were in their hire car, Aunty Marion and Uncle John - yes!!!!!!!!!! John is a keen driver and travels many miles through Europe regularly, I knew he'd find us! Marion's face was a picture - she had no idea!
They pulled in to the layby and Marion in her truely generous style pulled from her bag a bottle o' Bells and a huge Toblerone! We all enjoyed a warming swig and basically just giggle for about 5 minutes before having a proper catch up. We hung out in the layby for about 10mins in the chilly wind begore M&J got back on the road al the way down to Kivik to stay with their friends. They would be drving about the distance we have cycled in Sweden in about 5 hours - hmmmmmmm. So, thank you wonderful M&J - you totally made our day!
So excited by this brilliant pick-us-up we sauntered through Nyköping in search of a spot to free camp on the other side, somewhere nice by the sea. The clocks went back last night so the light would be fading by about 3.30pm today. better stop sauntering and get on with it. Good job we were sauntering I say because who should we see next on the other side of the road....
An ELK!!!!!! Yes, finally we've seen! Ever since we got to Sweden we've been looking out for one and so far have only seen one beware of Elk road sign never mind the real thing. The lovely big thing was just mooching around in some reeds down by the sea, his big horns silouhetted by the half light - wow. Just we were frantically rumaging for the camera some stupid cars whizzed by and trotted off quick as a flash in to the trees. Yay - so glad we saw one though.
Oh, I'm not sure if i want to free camp now, what if an elk tries to eat our tent! We travelled on to our preferred spot on the map, a little place called Horn and when we approached we saw a campsite sign! A-ha! So, we didn't quite free camp but we did get the old tent again (much to the campsite owners horror) and we were in a very lovely sucluded spot, just by the sea. It was totally and utterly dark by 4.30pm so we enjoyed our dindins in the dark and were tucked up in our sleeping bags by 6pm. Ridiculous!
We cycled 55 miles today.
Day 28 - Turning right
For those of you that have been following us on the map you will see that since Karlskrona we have been pretty much been going up, up, up. Today we turned right.......................we were finally heading east again and east on our route leads only one way now. Stockholm, allllllllright!
This was a big deal for me and lifted me immensley. We had an incredible tail wind and knocked out the first part of our journey (still going up) super quickly, it was pretty cold and we had some miles to cover that day so I was glad to be on the move. We hit the out skirts of Linsköpping and hung a right, que virtual screeching of breaks, whoa whoa whoa, we were hit with an instant head wind which practically stopped us in our tracks. We turned off the main road and crawled along, hmmmmm I thought the speed this morning had been too good to last. At snails pace we wound past brown muddy fields and huge milking farms then the road ran out. There are lots of minor roads in Sweden that lead to little villages, they are normally signposted in yellow and the roads are made of mud of clay, our fairly big road had just turned in to one of these. Hmmmm had we gone wrong somewhere? I was map reading today and suddenly panicked that I had difted off into one of my daydreams and missed the turning but nope, Sylv hadn't seen one either. So we thought we may as well carry on, which we did and 6 or so km later we popped out on a road again. Volia.
We were hungry again and decided to stop for lunch, the landscape looked just like Dartmoor with lots of big grantie rocks jutting out of the ground. I thought we could recreate a childhood moment by picnic-ing atop one so pedalled on until we found a suitable spot. We had a little feast and as we prepared to leave a man came out of his house to give us a wave off. Sorry we're English and we can't speak Swedish we chorused for the 100th time. Oh he said my neighbour is English, go and say hello to Raymond. So we did.
Hello, yoo-hoo we called to Raymond who was outside in his blue boiler suit. Hello, I say, we hear your English, we are too.........Hello he said looking like he'd like to run a million miles. Ah well we'll just be on our way I thought, then his wife came rushing out of the house, are you English she said smiling. Yes, yes we are. She was called Wyn and after a short chat in the drive (by which time the next door neighbour we had originally met had joined us with his wife and her sister) we were invited in for tea and biscuits. Yippp deee dooooo. One of my favourite daydreams was that at any given moment a lovely Swedish person was going to rush out of their house and invite us in for tea and cinnamon buns (when I told Sylv this she said she too thought about it constantly), this was pretty darn close. We were going into a Swedish house, a lovely yellow one and there were going to be some Swedish people there. The chocolate digestives more than made up for the lack of cinnamon buns. Job done.
We spent a lovely hour or so talking with everyone. Wyn and Raymond were so lovely and it was great to meet them, their neighbours told us all sorts of great Swedish history and facts. We learnt that Norsköpping (the big town to the North of us) was called the Manchester of Scandinavia due to it's textile connections. Fantastic we thought.
Bidding them all a fond farewell and after lots of photos, we set off to Södersköpping to find our hostel. And what a beauty it was, real warm and cosy and we were met by one of the wardens Ola who regaled us with almost all of Sweden's history and told us a troll story.
All in all a very excellent day.
This was a big deal for me and lifted me immensley. We had an incredible tail wind and knocked out the first part of our journey (still going up) super quickly, it was pretty cold and we had some miles to cover that day so I was glad to be on the move. We hit the out skirts of Linsköpping and hung a right, que virtual screeching of breaks, whoa whoa whoa, we were hit with an instant head wind which practically stopped us in our tracks. We turned off the main road and crawled along, hmmmmm I thought the speed this morning had been too good to last. At snails pace we wound past brown muddy fields and huge milking farms then the road ran out. There are lots of minor roads in Sweden that lead to little villages, they are normally signposted in yellow and the roads are made of mud of clay, our fairly big road had just turned in to one of these. Hmmmm had we gone wrong somewhere? I was map reading today and suddenly panicked that I had difted off into one of my daydreams and missed the turning but nope, Sylv hadn't seen one either. So we thought we may as well carry on, which we did and 6 or so km later we popped out on a road again. Volia.
We were hungry again and decided to stop for lunch, the landscape looked just like Dartmoor with lots of big grantie rocks jutting out of the ground. I thought we could recreate a childhood moment by picnic-ing atop one so pedalled on until we found a suitable spot. We had a little feast and as we prepared to leave a man came out of his house to give us a wave off. Sorry we're English and we can't speak Swedish we chorused for the 100th time. Oh he said my neighbour is English, go and say hello to Raymond. So we did.
Hello, yoo-hoo we called to Raymond who was outside in his blue boiler suit. Hello, I say, we hear your English, we are too.........Hello he said looking like he'd like to run a million miles. Ah well we'll just be on our way I thought, then his wife came rushing out of the house, are you English she said smiling. Yes, yes we are. She was called Wyn and after a short chat in the drive (by which time the next door neighbour we had originally met had joined us with his wife and her sister) we were invited in for tea and biscuits. Yippp deee dooooo. One of my favourite daydreams was that at any given moment a lovely Swedish person was going to rush out of their house and invite us in for tea and cinnamon buns (when I told Sylv this she said she too thought about it constantly), this was pretty darn close. We were going into a Swedish house, a lovely yellow one and there were going to be some Swedish people there. The chocolate digestives more than made up for the lack of cinnamon buns. Job done.
We spent a lovely hour or so talking with everyone. Wyn and Raymond were so lovely and it was great to meet them, their neighbours told us all sorts of great Swedish history and facts. We learnt that Norsköpping (the big town to the North of us) was called the Manchester of Scandinavia due to it's textile connections. Fantastic we thought.
Bidding them all a fond farewell and after lots of photos, we set off to Södersköpping to find our hostel. And what a beauty it was, real warm and cosy and we were met by one of the wardens Ola who regaled us with almost all of Sweden's history and told us a troll story.
All in all a very excellent day.
Day 27 - Lakes and more lakes
Ugh, here we go again. As Hana said, it really has started to feel a bit of a struggle of late. The limbs are starting to feel a bit stiff and are we actually getting anywhere? Why is Stockholm still maybe 5 days away? 5 more days = 5 more days cycling = 250 miles - waaaaaaaaaaaah!
The scenery on today's cycling made up for my lack of enthusiasm. I was map reading and roads we were following were nice back roads that followed lake after lake. Or was it just the same big lake? This landscape was like nothing we've seen so far and was quite breathtaking at times. We also passed some of the most amazing churches - mighty things in a the middle of a field or atop a little hill somewhere with only a few houses closeby for company.
Like me, my chain was beginning to give up and was making the most annoying creaking all day as we rolled up and down the hills. Obviously we havent packed anything as sensible as chain lube but we did have some olive oil (extra virgin of course), the same thing surely? We stopped for a snack by another beautiful lake and before a slathered my chain in Italy's finest I thought better just text Matti Mountford bike guru and check. Olive oil would do the job - excellent! We slapped a bit on and just as I got on my bike to ride around and distribute the grease I noticed it - another rotten puncture. Crumbs. How do I do it? Luckily for Hana she won't have to write to Schwalbe just yet, it was the front wheel this time.
It may sound like not that big a deal, a puncture. But it's such a faff, a hassel. And it's just REALLY annoying, what more can I say. Needless to say, we fixed it and carried on but I was now in even moer of a grump and could barely enjoy the sights before my eyes. Stupid stupid bike! when can I wake up and not have to get on it again? Please soon!
We stayed in a little summer house belonging to a lovely lady called Hildegrun, near the small town of Rimforsa. Hildegrun thought we were marvelous and her superb English meant we were able to chat to her for ages (she also let us use her internet for an hour or so so caught up a little on the blog - phew, it's a bit like homework this blog - if you get behind it's very hard to imagin how you will ever catch up!). She told us loads about Stockholm and the wonderful Swedish artist Karl Larsson. Nice talkin' to ya lady! http://www.granny.se/ !!!!!!!!
What with it being Friday we decided to have a night in by the telly and we watched Swedish 'Idol' aka XFactor! It was 90's night so we caught renditions of Bryan Adams, Haddaway and Britney Spears - excellent!
Mileage = 45
The scenery on today's cycling made up for my lack of enthusiasm. I was map reading and roads we were following were nice back roads that followed lake after lake. Or was it just the same big lake? This landscape was like nothing we've seen so far and was quite breathtaking at times. We also passed some of the most amazing churches - mighty things in a the middle of a field or atop a little hill somewhere with only a few houses closeby for company.
Like me, my chain was beginning to give up and was making the most annoying creaking all day as we rolled up and down the hills. Obviously we havent packed anything as sensible as chain lube but we did have some olive oil (extra virgin of course), the same thing surely? We stopped for a snack by another beautiful lake and before a slathered my chain in Italy's finest I thought better just text Matti Mountford bike guru and check. Olive oil would do the job - excellent! We slapped a bit on and just as I got on my bike to ride around and distribute the grease I noticed it - another rotten puncture. Crumbs. How do I do it? Luckily for Hana she won't have to write to Schwalbe just yet, it was the front wheel this time.
It may sound like not that big a deal, a puncture. But it's such a faff, a hassel. And it's just REALLY annoying, what more can I say. Needless to say, we fixed it and carried on but I was now in even moer of a grump and could barely enjoy the sights before my eyes. Stupid stupid bike! when can I wake up and not have to get on it again? Please soon!
We stayed in a little summer house belonging to a lovely lady called Hildegrun, near the small town of Rimforsa. Hildegrun thought we were marvelous and her superb English meant we were able to chat to her for ages (she also let us use her internet for an hour or so so caught up a little on the blog - phew, it's a bit like homework this blog - if you get behind it's very hard to imagin how you will ever catch up!). She told us loads about Stockholm and the wonderful Swedish artist Karl Larsson. Nice talkin' to ya lady! http://www.granny.se/ !!!!!!!!
What with it being Friday we decided to have a night in by the telly and we watched Swedish 'Idol' aka XFactor! It was 90's night so we caught renditions of Bryan Adams, Haddaway and Britney Spears - excellent!
Mileage = 45
Day 26 - The strongest girl in the world
Now I mentioned earlier in the blog that Sweden was a bit of a wonderland for me and today all my dreams came true.......................
Due to our inland detour today's destination was Vimmerby, the hometown of Astrid Lindgrens and now home to Astrid Lindgrens Värld, oh my goodnesss, I could barely contain my excitement. I was trying to persuede Sylvie to let us take a day off to hang out at this incredible sounding theme park but we settled on an early start and due to that lovely tail wind and a very quiet main road we reached Vimmerby by 12!!!!!
We loacted our hostel for the night then hotfooted it to Astrid Lindgrens Värld, I was going to be meeting Pippi and the gang before I knew it. Oh boy oh boy.
It was closed.
After cicrling the perimeter for 20 mins or so looking for a place to break in, I gave up and we decided to head for some lunch. Then we spotted a cafe right next to the park and decided to drown my sorrows over a hot chocolate. What luck, they were serving the most delicious buffet lunch for only 80k, we were sold. From the cafe we could see into the park and I saw a sign for Vilakulla Cottage, where Pippi lives with her monkey Mr Nelson and her horse on the porch. There was also a sign for Bullerby where Lars, Anna, Britta, Pip, Olaf and someone else who's name I can't remeber live. The stories about them make me feel so happy. In fact for christmas last year, age 30, my mum gave me a beautiful old Pippi Longstocking book and a book about the children of Bullerby, that's how much I love them!
More snow in Vimmerby
After our super lunch we headed back into town past the house where Astrid Lindgrens grew up, it is a museum now (closed) and looked just how I imagined the houses in her books to look like.
So there we are I was one happy lady.
We tootled off to the hostel via our favourite supermarket ( I have become addicted to going to the supermarket as it breaks up the day!) and settled in for the night.
Lovely view from hostel over the lake
Despite the excitement of the day (for me anyway) we were feeling slightly dejected, it was taking FOREVER to get anywhere in Sweden and we just didn't feel like we were making any headway. We spent the night poring over the maps and trying to work out if we could make our route any shorter, Stockholm seems so so far away....................
Miles today 45.
Due to our inland detour today's destination was Vimmerby, the hometown of Astrid Lindgrens and now home to Astrid Lindgrens Värld, oh my goodnesss, I could barely contain my excitement. I was trying to persuede Sylvie to let us take a day off to hang out at this incredible sounding theme park but we settled on an early start and due to that lovely tail wind and a very quiet main road we reached Vimmerby by 12!!!!!
We loacted our hostel for the night then hotfooted it to Astrid Lindgrens Värld, I was going to be meeting Pippi and the gang before I knew it. Oh boy oh boy.
It was closed.
After cicrling the perimeter for 20 mins or so looking for a place to break in, I gave up and we decided to head for some lunch. Then we spotted a cafe right next to the park and decided to drown my sorrows over a hot chocolate. What luck, they were serving the most delicious buffet lunch for only 80k, we were sold. From the cafe we could see into the park and I saw a sign for Vilakulla Cottage, where Pippi lives with her monkey Mr Nelson and her horse on the porch. There was also a sign for Bullerby where Lars, Anna, Britta, Pip, Olaf and someone else who's name I can't remeber live. The stories about them make me feel so happy. In fact for christmas last year, age 30, my mum gave me a beautiful old Pippi Longstocking book and a book about the children of Bullerby, that's how much I love them!
After our super lunch we headed back into town past the house where Astrid Lindgrens grew up, it is a museum now (closed) and looked just how I imagined the houses in her books to look like.
So there we are I was one happy lady.
We tootled off to the hostel via our favourite supermarket ( I have become addicted to going to the supermarket as it breaks up the day!) and settled in for the night.
Despite the excitement of the day (for me anyway) we were feeling slightly dejected, it was taking FOREVER to get anywhere in Sweden and we just didn't feel like we were making any headway. We spent the night poring over the maps and trying to work out if we could make our route any shorter, Stockholm seems so so far away....................
Miles today 45.
Day 25 - Wild wild west
Ok, so we've only gone west slightly but already we're hittin' up the country folk! Our Dad is obsessed with looking up where we are on google earth and keeps saying it looks like the wild west we are and right now I am inclined to agree!
Ye olde petrol station
-2 when we left our little hut at 9am this morning!
So from Orrefors we were making our way to Fägelfors along long long empty roads but for the occasional beat-up old Volvo or even a vintage Saab - nice! I keep looking out for handsome young men driving such cars but unfortunately most of the drivers are at least 60 and barely batt an eyelid as they saunter past us.
This is glass making country - the ground is really sandy here so there are lots of Glasbruks along the way (adding to my increasing paranoia about getting another puncture!) those and wood factroies as I like to call them. There's loads of them - huge huge plots dedicated to the sorting, chopping, slicing and dicing of trees. Mega mega woodpiles and then nothing. For miles.
We took some brilliant short cuts today - our map shows all the little track-type roads which cut through Sweden allowing all the country bumpkins to get to where they live. These roads are brilliant and quite exciting as you always feel a little bit like you're going to get lost but somehow never do.
We arrived at our hostel by 2pm (this is getting silly now, are we being lazy not going so far or are we just turning in to speed demons?) and were greeting by the lovely landlady who managed to tempt me very easily in to agreeing to pay an extra 6pounds for breakfast - it sounded so good! The hostel was lovely but somewhat of a time-warp - again photos to follow. It was a bit like being in the Swedish version of 'That 70's Show' (a programme they seem to love over here - noooo!).
Cooky hostel!
Miles today - 38
So from Orrefors we were making our way to Fägelfors along long long empty roads but for the occasional beat-up old Volvo or even a vintage Saab - nice! I keep looking out for handsome young men driving such cars but unfortunately most of the drivers are at least 60 and barely batt an eyelid as they saunter past us.
This is glass making country - the ground is really sandy here so there are lots of Glasbruks along the way (adding to my increasing paranoia about getting another puncture!) those and wood factroies as I like to call them. There's loads of them - huge huge plots dedicated to the sorting, chopping, slicing and dicing of trees. Mega mega woodpiles and then nothing. For miles.
We took some brilliant short cuts today - our map shows all the little track-type roads which cut through Sweden allowing all the country bumpkins to get to where they live. These roads are brilliant and quite exciting as you always feel a little bit like you're going to get lost but somehow never do.
We arrived at our hostel by 2pm (this is getting silly now, are we being lazy not going so far or are we just turning in to speed demons?) and were greeting by the lovely landlady who managed to tempt me very easily in to agreeing to pay an extra 6pounds for breakfast - it sounded so good! The hostel was lovely but somewhat of a time-warp - again photos to follow. It was a bit like being in the Swedish version of 'That 70's Show' (a programme they seem to love over here - noooo!).
Miles today - 38
Day 24 - Into the heartland
What a beautiful place Kolboda is, we sat outside on the frozen ground and ate our breakfast by the lake with the winter sun coming up, fantastic!
It was quite cold today!
So as we mentioned earlier we had thought about taking another route as our planned route up the coast was not too hot for hostels and the idea of having to camp every night in this freezing weather was not appealing. So today we started our route inland. The detour would mean a few extra miles but at least we could be guaranteed a night in a hostel and that made us happy.
We were also drastically cutting back on the miles, we are exhausted and did we mention cold, goodness it's freezing. Today's route was taking us to Orrefors, the route was short the roads were quiet and we swished along, before we knew it we were at our lunch stop and it was only 11 am! We came off the main road after buying our lunch and had the most beautiful ride through the woods on super sleek roads with no one on them, yeee-hah! Before we knew it we had arrived at our destination. We were staying in a little cosy hut again, not quite as cute as Göken but lovely none the less, and they had a TV room, so after a walk round the village we settled down to watch a few episodes of the Simpsons. Ah now this is living.
We were a bit scared in our hut that night as we were the only people staying there and we kept hearing cars drive past in the night, but of course we were fine.
We did about 40 miles today, a good rest for the old legs.
So as we mentioned earlier we had thought about taking another route as our planned route up the coast was not too hot for hostels and the idea of having to camp every night in this freezing weather was not appealing. So today we started our route inland. The detour would mean a few extra miles but at least we could be guaranteed a night in a hostel and that made us happy.
We were also drastically cutting back on the miles, we are exhausted and did we mention cold, goodness it's freezing. Today's route was taking us to Orrefors, the route was short the roads were quiet and we swished along, before we knew it we were at our lunch stop and it was only 11 am! We came off the main road after buying our lunch and had the most beautiful ride through the woods on super sleek roads with no one on them, yeee-hah! Before we knew it we had arrived at our destination. We were staying in a little cosy hut again, not quite as cute as Göken but lovely none the less, and they had a TV room, so after a walk round the village we settled down to watch a few episodes of the Simpsons. Ah now this is living.
We were a bit scared in our hut that night as we were the only people staying there and we kept hearing cars drive past in the night, but of course we were fine.
We did about 40 miles today, a good rest for the old legs.
Day 23 - Summer houses to die for
We allowed ourselves a little lie in as the bike shop didn't open 'til 10am and was only round the corner from the hostel. Once out of our cosy beds we quickly noticed how utterly bloody freeeeeezing it was today - argh! My toes were already numb by the time we reached the shop some 500m away...
When we pulled up a the shop shop we noticed a different sign explaining that the workshop actually opened at 8am not 10am. Oh well, nice lie in! We siad hello and after asking my most frequently asked question, 'Do you speak English?' the mechanic tottered off to fetch someone who could. A nice young chap came came nack with him and quickly assured us they'd be able to help (not that we'd doubted the fact, we were in a bike workshop after all) - the workshop was impressive and both mechanics had rows of bikes waiting to be seen to.
I decided to opt for another pricey tyre considering the possiblility of more punctures and the fact that I'd be forced to kick myself if a cheaper one failed me later on. If the expensive one lets me down I'll just get Hana to write one of her letters to Schwalbe and hope that they send us a lifetimes suppply...Within 20 minutes we were on our way (following comliments from the young chap on Hana's, 'Very good old bike.') trying once again to make our way out of an average sized town with a crap map - infuriating! But, with fresh air in our tyres we were feeling confident and looking forward to more costal-ish cycling.
If you haven't looked at a map of Sweden yet I urge you! In particular, the SE/E coast where we are. It is quite simply mind bogglingly wonderful! As you will see on your map (or google earth!), there are lots of islands. Actually, not lots but millions, perhaps even trillions - look at them all! The most amazing coastline you ever did see? You may at this point also like to take note of how far from Stockholm we still are. This counrty is massive. This morning, looking at the maps Hana casually said about the rest of our journey, 'Its just like doing all of England and the Netherlands again really.' Great.
We hugged this beautiful cold coastline to a tiny peninsular on which the village of Kolboda sits. A few days ago during our panic in Kristianstad the woman in the Tourist Office (helpful though she was) had assured us that the hostel marked on the map was closed at this time of year. Instead, she'd given us details of a campsite with huts (yay!) that was open but a tad on the pricey side. As we pootled in to the sleepy little village and caught glimipse of the gawdy camspite we peddled on in search of the hostel - just to check.
Right at the end of the road next to the sign warning cars not to drive in to the sea was a very hostel-like building, 'Välkommen till Kolbodagärden.' Hana hopped off and squashed her face against the glass door, 'It looks like a hostel,' she said as a man appeared from behind the glass. Well, well, well a hostel it was and very welcome we were! Excellent, we don't have to stay in the overpriced over the top campsite!
Kolbodagärden really was in the most beautiful little spot and because we'd made it there by 3pm there was loads of daylight left for an evening stroll (we've taken to strolling of an evening in an attempt to avoid 'cyclist's walk' or 'cyclist's waddle as it should be known). We wandered through the trees and peered in to all the vacant summer houses - agreeing that a Swedish summer house would be a fine thing to aim for in life. Back at the hostel we decided that now was the time to do it...we had to get our feet in the water!
Until now, despite lots of coast hugging in all countries we haven't got our feet wet (let alone swam). Before we set off on this trip I had visions of us jumping in to lakes every five minutes to cool off and evening swims in the sea. Pah! What on earth was I thinking? It's October IN SWEDEN, this is the Baltic sea and it's very cold. Anyway, the feet went in but only up to the ankles and I can assure that was enough. Although only our feet were in the whole experience was somehow mind numblingly cold - how do all the lovely swans that surround us stay warm? So that was it, out first brush with the Swedish waters. The same waters we will one day swim in - when we have our very own summer house (in summer).
When we pulled up a the shop shop we noticed a different sign explaining that the workshop actually opened at 8am not 10am. Oh well, nice lie in! We siad hello and after asking my most frequently asked question, 'Do you speak English?' the mechanic tottered off to fetch someone who could. A nice young chap came came nack with him and quickly assured us they'd be able to help (not that we'd doubted the fact, we were in a bike workshop after all) - the workshop was impressive and both mechanics had rows of bikes waiting to be seen to.
I decided to opt for another pricey tyre considering the possiblility of more punctures and the fact that I'd be forced to kick myself if a cheaper one failed me later on. If the expensive one lets me down I'll just get Hana to write one of her letters to Schwalbe and hope that they send us a lifetimes suppply...Within 20 minutes we were on our way (following comliments from the young chap on Hana's, 'Very good old bike.') trying once again to make our way out of an average sized town with a crap map - infuriating! But, with fresh air in our tyres we were feeling confident and looking forward to more costal-ish cycling.
If you haven't looked at a map of Sweden yet I urge you! In particular, the SE/E coast where we are. It is quite simply mind bogglingly wonderful! As you will see on your map (or google earth!), there are lots of islands. Actually, not lots but millions, perhaps even trillions - look at them all! The most amazing coastline you ever did see? You may at this point also like to take note of how far from Stockholm we still are. This counrty is massive. This morning, looking at the maps Hana casually said about the rest of our journey, 'Its just like doing all of England and the Netherlands again really.' Great.
We hugged this beautiful cold coastline to a tiny peninsular on which the village of Kolboda sits. A few days ago during our panic in Kristianstad the woman in the Tourist Office (helpful though she was) had assured us that the hostel marked on the map was closed at this time of year. Instead, she'd given us details of a campsite with huts (yay!) that was open but a tad on the pricey side. As we pootled in to the sleepy little village and caught glimipse of the gawdy camspite we peddled on in search of the hostel - just to check.
Right at the end of the road next to the sign warning cars not to drive in to the sea was a very hostel-like building, 'Välkommen till Kolbodagärden.' Hana hopped off and squashed her face against the glass door, 'It looks like a hostel,' she said as a man appeared from behind the glass. Well, well, well a hostel it was and very welcome we were! Excellent, we don't have to stay in the overpriced over the top campsite!
Kolbodagärden really was in the most beautiful little spot and because we'd made it there by 3pm there was loads of daylight left for an evening stroll (we've taken to strolling of an evening in an attempt to avoid 'cyclist's walk' or 'cyclist's waddle as it should be known). We wandered through the trees and peered in to all the vacant summer houses - agreeing that a Swedish summer house would be a fine thing to aim for in life. Back at the hostel we decided that now was the time to do it...we had to get our feet in the water!
Until now, despite lots of coast hugging in all countries we haven't got our feet wet (let alone swam). Before we set off on this trip I had visions of us jumping in to lakes every five minutes to cool off and evening swims in the sea. Pah! What on earth was I thinking? It's October IN SWEDEN, this is the Baltic sea and it's very cold. Anyway, the feet went in but only up to the ankles and I can assure that was enough. Although only our feet were in the whole experience was somehow mind numblingly cold - how do all the lovely swans that surround us stay warm? So that was it, out first brush with the Swedish waters. The same waters we will one day swim in - when we have our very own summer house (in summer).
Friday 29 October 2010
Day 22 - Free ferries? free museums? so that's what they pay so much tax for
We hung around waiting for the hostel reception guy to show up and when he did he told us the bike shop was open but not until 11. Good news, slightly worse news, it was about 7km out of town. We wheedled off and got superbly lost in the old part of Karlskrona, we just couldn't find the road out.
Sylv was cycling on her flat tyre and was getting frustrated, we stopped to look at the map again and to check her tyre. She spotted the problem the inner tube blow out had ripped part of her tyre and the wires inside were showing, oh this was worse than we thought. It was 11 by now so I called the bike shop to check that they would have a tyre and could fit it that day. Unasigned number flashed up on the phone, I tried again and again but to no avail. In our lostness we had spotted another bike shop that promised to be open the next day from 10. As our hands and feet started to freeze again and the grey clouds rolled in, we wound back through the town to the hostel. Any room I asked to the smiling receptionist, of course you are so welcome he replied. He had just finished telling all thr other other hostel staff about our trip.
So we had a free day in a very beautiful town, lucky us. We warmed up and put on our lounge clothes, made a packed lunch and hit the streets. There was a free ferry to be caught.
Hey said some familiar voices, Frances and Jannes joined us on the ferry crossing. We got to Aspö and spent a lovely hour (in the pouring rain) walking around and looking at the beautiful summer houses and the swimming spot. Then after our sandwhiches went back to the mainland where we said our final goodbyes to our German friends.
Once again, looking a bit mental...
They'd tipped us off that the marine museum was a great place and as I had now realised I have a slight obsession with all things nautical we went along. It was great, really good displays and interesting information, finished off with a lovely hot chocolate. Uber nice.
We headed home and had a relaxing sunday dinner.
Miles - about 3
Sylv was cycling on her flat tyre and was getting frustrated, we stopped to look at the map again and to check her tyre. She spotted the problem the inner tube blow out had ripped part of her tyre and the wires inside were showing, oh this was worse than we thought. It was 11 by now so I called the bike shop to check that they would have a tyre and could fit it that day. Unasigned number flashed up on the phone, I tried again and again but to no avail. In our lostness we had spotted another bike shop that promised to be open the next day from 10. As our hands and feet started to freeze again and the grey clouds rolled in, we wound back through the town to the hostel. Any room I asked to the smiling receptionist, of course you are so welcome he replied. He had just finished telling all thr other other hostel staff about our trip.
So we had a free day in a very beautiful town, lucky us. We warmed up and put on our lounge clothes, made a packed lunch and hit the streets. There was a free ferry to be caught.
Hey said some familiar voices, Frances and Jannes joined us on the ferry crossing. We got to Aspö and spent a lovely hour (in the pouring rain) walking around and looking at the beautiful summer houses and the swimming spot. Then after our sandwhiches went back to the mainland where we said our final goodbyes to our German friends.
They'd tipped us off that the marine museum was a great place and as I had now realised I have a slight obsession with all things nautical we went along. It was great, really good displays and interesting information, finished off with a lovely hot chocolate. Uber nice.
We headed home and had a relaxing sunday dinner.
Miles - about 3
Day 21 - Let downs and blow outs
I left our lovely cabin with a heavy heart thought grateful that I wasnt map reading today. We had a long way to go and route was winding to avoid the E22 highway. However, we had a beautiful ride following the coast through stunning woodland and passing small summer house villages. Although the rain had stopped the air was thick and there was no sign of the sun all day. But as we bumbled along we imagined how amazing this landscape must look during summer.
After an early lunch courtesy of Lidl (took me back to my Bedminster days - are all Lidls EXACTLY the same no-matter where you are in the world?) we pressed on, this time on a more major road with less exciting scenery. The stupid road was wold-esque and as I came to the top of a hill I had that old familiar and very unwelcome feeling....the rear puncture. I wobbled to a standstill and called to Hana to stop. Well, the 40quid Danish wonder tyre didnt cut it for long did it? We chaged the tube and I picked out two minute pieces of glass which had created quite a big gash in the tyre - how could this be!? Once the tyre was inlfated we noticed it was bulging near the valve and spent a while trying to rectify it before giving up as the bulge wouldn't budge.We were about 10kms from Karlskrona and thought we'd make it despite the bulge.
50m down the road and BANG! Whoops, a blow out. Perhaps we should've been more patient. We phoned our bycicle advice hotline, my very good friend Matthew Mountford who had kindly said we could call him anytime. He provided sound advice delivered in his ever cool calm and collected manner - thanks Matti! However, despite his advice and our efforts to follow it something still wasnt quite right. The tube was a bit better but there was still a bulge.
We plodded in to Karlskrona and miraculously found our hostel with ease, our first question to the chap at reception being, 'Is there a bike shop here?' He wasnt sure it would be open tomorrow (Sunday) but promised to find out and let us know in the morning. So we began a bit of a waiting game. Karlskrona is quite a big town but I had my suspicions about the shop being open on a Sunday. Think positive Sylvie, come on now.
As we made dinner we met Frances and Jannes from Germany. Frances in training as a pedagog at a Montessouri school in Lund and Jannes had come to visit her for the weekend so they'd come to Karlskrona for a little holiday by the sea. They were both really lovely and told us how they'd met working at a Camp Hill Community in N. Ireland - cool! Frances told us that tomorrow they'd be getting a free ferry to one of the many many nearby islands. Maybe we could too if the bike shop isn't open. Now wouldn't that be nice?
After an early lunch courtesy of Lidl (took me back to my Bedminster days - are all Lidls EXACTLY the same no-matter where you are in the world?) we pressed on, this time on a more major road with less exciting scenery. The stupid road was wold-esque and as I came to the top of a hill I had that old familiar and very unwelcome feeling....the rear puncture. I wobbled to a standstill and called to Hana to stop. Well, the 40quid Danish wonder tyre didnt cut it for long did it? We chaged the tube and I picked out two minute pieces of glass which had created quite a big gash in the tyre - how could this be!? Once the tyre was inlfated we noticed it was bulging near the valve and spent a while trying to rectify it before giving up as the bulge wouldn't budge.We were about 10kms from Karlskrona and thought we'd make it despite the bulge.
50m down the road and BANG! Whoops, a blow out. Perhaps we should've been more patient. We phoned our bycicle advice hotline, my very good friend Matthew Mountford who had kindly said we could call him anytime. He provided sound advice delivered in his ever cool calm and collected manner - thanks Matti! However, despite his advice and our efforts to follow it something still wasnt quite right. The tube was a bit better but there was still a bulge.
We plodded in to Karlskrona and miraculously found our hostel with ease, our first question to the chap at reception being, 'Is there a bike shop here?' He wasnt sure it would be open tomorrow (Sunday) but promised to find out and let us know in the morning. So we began a bit of a waiting game. Karlskrona is quite a big town but I had my suspicions about the shop being open on a Sunday. Think positive Sylvie, come on now.
As we made dinner we met Frances and Jannes from Germany. Frances in training as a pedagog at a Montessouri school in Lund and Jannes had come to visit her for the weekend so they'd come to Karlskrona for a little holiday by the sea. They were both really lovely and told us how they'd met working at a Camp Hill Community in N. Ireland - cool! Frances told us that tomorrow they'd be getting a free ferry to one of the many many nearby islands. Maybe we could too if the bike shop isn't open. Now wouldn't that be nice?
Day 20 - The land of make believe
So here I am in Sweden, one of the lands of my childhood dreams. The country where Pippi Longstocking roamed with her friends Tommy and Annika and her monkey Mr Nelson, where the children of Bullerby lived (in my eyes) the most wonderful life and the country that Carl Larsson portrayed in so much detail in his incredible books about his family and farm. I can't quite beleive I am here. Happy days indeed.
We breakfasted overlooking the lake (get us) and commented to each other on how windy it looked, oh we thought we'd left the wind behind.
Outside it was freezing and the wind was right up, but hey hey what's this, it was only our first tail wind of the whole trip and soon we were whizzing along at 18 mph, speeds we hadn't reached since Holland. Nice going, I thought. We were headed for Kristinstad to check out the tourist office.
As we whipped along through the icey sleet it was hard not to smile, we're in Sweden, we're in Sweden. As the sleet slowed for a bit and the sun came out a huge rainbow appeared to our left and what with the wind and the small barns dotted all over the place I was convinced that any minute now I would see Dorothy and Toto skipping through the fields (yes I know they were from Kansas, but it just felt like that).
All aorund us there were trees, they were mainly Beech and were the most fantastic vivid colours, it was glorious to cycle through.
We reached Kristianstad and marched into the tourist shop armed with our maps and a zillion questions. The woman in there was very helpful and after spending an hour or so looking at hostels in the worlds darkest dankest internet cafe we left Kristianstad with renewed vigour.
Our end of day destination was Sölvesborg and we reached there just before it got dark. We had been given the name of a hostel but as we were cycling in to the town we spotted a campsite that we thought we'd check out and oh boy were we glad we did. Sylvie spotted some little huts and was hooked, you ain't never seen a happier girl so I shall let her tell you about our night there.........
Now this is what I've been waiting for. All my life! I asked Thorleif the campsite owner what the name of our cabin, Göken, meant, 'It's a bird we have, cuck-oo, cuck-oo,' he said making the sound. 'Oh, I said ' we call it a Cuckoo!' at which he roared with laughter (anyone called Thorleif should certainly roar when laughing) and continued to mimick the Göken.We settled in to our beautiful, tiny but perfectly formed Göken, we cranked the heaters up, erected a drying line for our socks and put the pan o' water on for constant stream of tea.
There is nothing I like more than staying in tiny places. I dream of Romany caravans, enjoyed one of the best holidays ever on narrow boat and marvel at small yachts (although I would'nt want to go on a yacht - the sea, like lakes, is quite scary). I really want to live in a tiny flat one day. So this little cabin really was my idea of heaven and especially as sursprise surprise, it was raining again. The cabin had everything we needed: little beds, little chairs, a little table, hooks for our coats and a single hob to make our dinner - brilliant! Why do we all clatter around in big houses? We reveled in our surroundings and played ludo and mini cards all evening. Let's hope there'll be a few more Gökens along the way...
How cute is this?
I told you she was happy, if anyone has any spare wooden sheds going, I think you can safely say Sylvie will purchase it from you.
I also just have to say that Sweden may also be Mrs West's (aka Jodie's mum) dream country, you aren't anyone here unless you are driving a huge Volvo estate and that is just what Mrs West likes. When aged 14 Jodie, Helena, Tamara and I used to go to football club in Crediton, Mrs West would turn up to collect us in her huge burgandy Volvo estate with Rod Stewart blaring out of the speakers and call 'Sweetie' time to go home. She knew just how to embarass us. She has now moved on to a new model of Volvo and I am now more appreciative of the old Volvo estates, in fact I think I'd rather like one!
We breakfasted overlooking the lake (get us) and commented to each other on how windy it looked, oh we thought we'd left the wind behind.
Outside it was freezing and the wind was right up, but hey hey what's this, it was only our first tail wind of the whole trip and soon we were whizzing along at 18 mph, speeds we hadn't reached since Holland. Nice going, I thought. We were headed for Kristinstad to check out the tourist office.
As we whipped along through the icey sleet it was hard not to smile, we're in Sweden, we're in Sweden. As the sleet slowed for a bit and the sun came out a huge rainbow appeared to our left and what with the wind and the small barns dotted all over the place I was convinced that any minute now I would see Dorothy and Toto skipping through the fields (yes I know they were from Kansas, but it just felt like that).
All aorund us there were trees, they were mainly Beech and were the most fantastic vivid colours, it was glorious to cycle through.
We reached Kristianstad and marched into the tourist shop armed with our maps and a zillion questions. The woman in there was very helpful and after spending an hour or so looking at hostels in the worlds darkest dankest internet cafe we left Kristianstad with renewed vigour.
Our end of day destination was Sölvesborg and we reached there just before it got dark. We had been given the name of a hostel but as we were cycling in to the town we spotted a campsite that we thought we'd check out and oh boy were we glad we did. Sylvie spotted some little huts and was hooked, you ain't never seen a happier girl so I shall let her tell you about our night there.........
Now this is what I've been waiting for. All my life! I asked Thorleif the campsite owner what the name of our cabin, Göken, meant, 'It's a bird we have, cuck-oo, cuck-oo,' he said making the sound. 'Oh, I said ' we call it a Cuckoo!' at which he roared with laughter (anyone called Thorleif should certainly roar when laughing) and continued to mimick the Göken.We settled in to our beautiful, tiny but perfectly formed Göken, we cranked the heaters up, erected a drying line for our socks and put the pan o' water on for constant stream of tea.
There is nothing I like more than staying in tiny places. I dream of Romany caravans, enjoyed one of the best holidays ever on narrow boat and marvel at small yachts (although I would'nt want to go on a yacht - the sea, like lakes, is quite scary). I really want to live in a tiny flat one day. So this little cabin really was my idea of heaven and especially as sursprise surprise, it was raining again. The cabin had everything we needed: little beds, little chairs, a little table, hooks for our coats and a single hob to make our dinner - brilliant! Why do we all clatter around in big houses? We reveled in our surroundings and played ludo and mini cards all evening. Let's hope there'll be a few more Gökens along the way...
I told you she was happy, if anyone has any spare wooden sheds going, I think you can safely say Sylvie will purchase it from you.
I also just have to say that Sweden may also be Mrs West's (aka Jodie's mum) dream country, you aren't anyone here unless you are driving a huge Volvo estate and that is just what Mrs West likes. When aged 14 Jodie, Helena, Tamara and I used to go to football club in Crediton, Mrs West would turn up to collect us in her huge burgandy Volvo estate with Rod Stewart blaring out of the speakers and call 'Sweetie' time to go home. She knew just how to embarass us. She has now moved on to a new model of Volvo and I am now more appreciative of the old Volvo estates, in fact I think I'd rather like one!
Day 19 - 'I thought you packed the snow chains' (Dumb & Dumber on tour in Sweden)
We'd decided yesterday that if the weather was good (not raining) today we'd better get moving. We would've loved to have stayed longer in Copenhagen but as we were both feeling fairly well rested (despite our mystery snoring roomie) there was no excuse - we had to hit the road again. OK, not the road at first but the tracks. This time, we were getting the train out of neccessity rather than desperation.
The sky was ble when we woke and stayed that way for a few hours. We'd stayed on the island of Amager in Copenhagen - a little out of the city but on the main line for trains to Sweden. The tain crosses the amazing (I've seen the pictures) Oresund bridge but it was actually a pretty disappointing journey; tha train was uber crowded and at no point did we ctch a glimpse of the bridge - awwwwww! Oh well, I'm soooo grateful you're not allowed to cycle over it, Hana would've made me and I don't think I could've coped after the trauma of the Afsluitdijk in Holland!
Instead of the first Swedish stop Malmö, we got off at Lund, the next town. It was only another 15minutes on the train and without a detailed map of Malmö we didn't fance our chances trying to get out of the city. We stocked up on Swedish Krona and hit the road in search of Hörby. By this stage, the blue sky had long since disappeared and as the icy rain battered us we were heckled by Swedish workmen no doubt wondering what on earth we were doing...Despite the chill in the air we were feeling so excited to finally have got to Sweden our destination country as last. Already the landscape and surroundings felt different. The Swedish flags were flying outside all the country houses and suddenly there were trees - millions of them, in the most beautiful autumn shades.
Along the way people have been commenting on the weather and questioning our desire to camp and today we finally understood why. We'd got blasted earlier and on the train the conductor had explained they'd had snow 30kms away and here it was! We passed through a few small villages and by the side of the road and on the roofs of the houses was a thin yet very noticeable layer of snow - no way!!!! Joy of joys, at least we were on our way to hostel in Hörby - or so we thought.
SNOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
When we arrived in the town no one had heard of such hostel. It was after 5pm, getting darker and now utterly freezing. Hana asked as many people as possible but to no avail. So, our only option now in this tiny town was to head to the next village in search of the campsite. Whist Hana had been frantically trying to find the hostel I'd been waiting with the bikes in the square gradually gettting colder and colder - my own fault, I hadnt imagined she would be so long so didn't bother to put more clothes on . As we cycled out of town to what felt like a far away village in the pitch black my hands and feet felt like they were about to drop off. 5kms later we found the camspite which turned out to be a hotel as well. Oooooh, the dilema - camping, hotel room, camping, hotel room. So, we spent the evening wrapped up in bathrobes feeling very much like Lloyd and Harry from Dumb & Dumber (don't knock it 'til you've seen it (at least 40 times)).
Check out the luxury!
This whole episode of not finding the hostel put us in to a bit of a panic so we also spent the evening questioning the map and devising an alternative route for Sweden based on places to stay that actually exist - thanks for assistance via telephone Dad! Tomorrow we would make it to the next big town and hit the tourist office.
Miles today - 35
The sky was ble when we woke and stayed that way for a few hours. We'd stayed on the island of Amager in Copenhagen - a little out of the city but on the main line for trains to Sweden. The tain crosses the amazing (I've seen the pictures) Oresund bridge but it was actually a pretty disappointing journey; tha train was uber crowded and at no point did we ctch a glimpse of the bridge - awwwwww! Oh well, I'm soooo grateful you're not allowed to cycle over it, Hana would've made me and I don't think I could've coped after the trauma of the Afsluitdijk in Holland!
Instead of the first Swedish stop Malmö, we got off at Lund, the next town. It was only another 15minutes on the train and without a detailed map of Malmö we didn't fance our chances trying to get out of the city. We stocked up on Swedish Krona and hit the road in search of Hörby. By this stage, the blue sky had long since disappeared and as the icy rain battered us we were heckled by Swedish workmen no doubt wondering what on earth we were doing...Despite the chill in the air we were feeling so excited to finally have got to Sweden our destination country as last. Already the landscape and surroundings felt different. The Swedish flags were flying outside all the country houses and suddenly there were trees - millions of them, in the most beautiful autumn shades.
Along the way people have been commenting on the weather and questioning our desire to camp and today we finally understood why. We'd got blasted earlier and on the train the conductor had explained they'd had snow 30kms away and here it was! We passed through a few small villages and by the side of the road and on the roofs of the houses was a thin yet very noticeable layer of snow - no way!!!! Joy of joys, at least we were on our way to hostel in Hörby - or so we thought.
When we arrived in the town no one had heard of such hostel. It was after 5pm, getting darker and now utterly freezing. Hana asked as many people as possible but to no avail. So, our only option now in this tiny town was to head to the next village in search of the campsite. Whist Hana had been frantically trying to find the hostel I'd been waiting with the bikes in the square gradually gettting colder and colder - my own fault, I hadnt imagined she would be so long so didn't bother to put more clothes on . As we cycled out of town to what felt like a far away village in the pitch black my hands and feet felt like they were about to drop off. 5kms later we found the camspite which turned out to be a hotel as well. Oooooh, the dilema - camping, hotel room, camping, hotel room. So, we spent the evening wrapped up in bathrobes feeling very much like Lloyd and Harry from Dumb & Dumber (don't knock it 'til you've seen it (at least 40 times)).
This whole episode of not finding the hostel put us in to a bit of a panic so we also spent the evening questioning the map and devising an alternative route for Sweden based on places to stay that actually exist - thanks for assistance via telephone Dad! Tomorrow we would make it to the next big town and hit the tourist office.
Miles today - 35
Thursday 21 October 2010
Day 18 - Cool runnings in Copenhagen
After a farewell breakfast with the lovely Maggie and Frida and lots of photos...........we set off for Copenhagen to go to a meeting!
Bye bye lovely ladies - thanks for looking after us!
Our media consultants John and Marion Garrad had set up a meeting for us with the Scelrosis organisation in Denmark. So at 11.30 we were greeted by the very lovely Lotte who welcomed us in and showed us around. Lotte works as PR for the organisation and was really interested to hear our story.
Well, what a fantastic organisation they have here in Denmark. Having seen the wonderful centre they run in Haslev it was awesome to meet others within the charity. Lotte explained that anyone affected by MS can come to the office and see psycologists for help or ask any questions they may have. They had set up a website for kids of people with MS so that they can go online and talk to each other, this is facilitated by a doctor. They offer this service for adults also and have found it affective in getting men and boys to talk about their feelings.
We were joined by Irene who works in marketing and we had a delicious lunch together (from the amazing canteen). Irene asked us lots of questions and is keen to use us as a case study to promote fundraising in Denmark. She loved the idea of travelling from M to S.
We came away from the meeting feeling so happy, they had made us feel completley welcome and seemed genuinlly interested in what we are doing. We wish that the MS Society in the UK was this switched on.
With Lotte at the office
Late afternoon we headed to our hostel and managed to catch the last canal tour of the city which was great. Copenhagen looks like an awesome city and one to explore in the future for sure.
Nyhavn in Copenhagen
Our favourite buildings on the tour!
Tomorrow we are off to Malmo and the start of the last leg of our journey.
Thanks so much for all you messages of support, we really do appreciate them and we feel confident we can make this last stint. Stockholm here we come.
Lots of love to you all, Hana and Sylvie xxxxx
Our media consultants John and Marion Garrad had set up a meeting for us with the Scelrosis organisation in Denmark. So at 11.30 we were greeted by the very lovely Lotte who welcomed us in and showed us around. Lotte works as PR for the organisation and was really interested to hear our story.
Well, what a fantastic organisation they have here in Denmark. Having seen the wonderful centre they run in Haslev it was awesome to meet others within the charity. Lotte explained that anyone affected by MS can come to the office and see psycologists for help or ask any questions they may have. They had set up a website for kids of people with MS so that they can go online and talk to each other, this is facilitated by a doctor. They offer this service for adults also and have found it affective in getting men and boys to talk about their feelings.
We were joined by Irene who works in marketing and we had a delicious lunch together (from the amazing canteen). Irene asked us lots of questions and is keen to use us as a case study to promote fundraising in Denmark. She loved the idea of travelling from M to S.
We came away from the meeting feeling so happy, they had made us feel completley welcome and seemed genuinlly interested in what we are doing. We wish that the MS Society in the UK was this switched on.
Late afternoon we headed to our hostel and managed to catch the last canal tour of the city which was great. Copenhagen looks like an awesome city and one to explore in the future for sure.
Tomorrow we are off to Malmo and the start of the last leg of our journey.
Thanks so much for all you messages of support, we really do appreciate them and we feel confident we can make this last stint. Stockholm here we come.
Lots of love to you all, Hana and Sylvie xxxxx
Day 17 - Vacation in Viby!
Horray - we're still at Maggie's and we have the day off!
Me and Frida
We did have a few things to do though....
We did have a few things to do though....
- We walked Frida the dog (a sweet chocolate labrador) and on the way met Marianne, Maggie's neighbour and her dog. She took us through the woods which was beautiful - it was good to have a guide with us or we would've got lost!
- I picked some litle paradise apples (a bit like red crab apples) from the garden for Maggie to use later to make paradise apple jelly...mmmmmmm. She is going to write a book of chutney recipes one day - I think it may be a best seller!
- We went to the shops in Viby (pronounced Vee-buuh) and marvelled at the selection of English goods on sale in the posh supermarket - HP sauce, Yorkshire Tea (I resisted as the box was enourmous and expensive), Walkers crisps, Marmite etc etc. The men working in the shop were laughing at me laughing at the display...We bought some food for the evening dinner and went to the most amazing charity shop and bought a pair of jeans each to wear in Copenhagen - pah!
- We also spent a considerable amount of time drinking tea, listening to Danish radio, and making curries for dinner and BLOGGING.
- Later on, Maggie's lovely daughter Lea and her boyfriend Michaelcame over and we all ate together (some choosing the left over lasagne over our veggie curry!). Lea and Michael are both techno-wizards and manged to sort out our stupid camera so we should hvae more photos from now on (can't upload any here though) - thanks you two!
4 miles in to Viby and back on our bikes!
Wednesday 20 October 2010
Day 16 - Delightful Denmark
We left Gitte's cosy flat with a packed lunch she had made us and directions to the bike shop (to get Sylv's tyre sorted out once and for all) and to visit the troll (who carried a bag of sand accross Denmark but didn't realise there was a small whole in the bottom of it, the sand that fell out along the way created the undulating landscape).
With a brand new Danish tyre on Sylv's bike we set off to visit the sclerosis centre in Haslev. The receptionist welcomed us but said, oh you have come on the worst day possible, we have 42 new clints arriving today. Still 10 minutes later after a glass of juice we were being introduced to a nurse called Anders (who Sylvie was rather taken with......) who offered to show us around.
What an incredible place, meeting Gitte the previous day and then seeing this wonderful centre in action gave me some real strength after the last annoying days. The centre was beautiful, set in lovely grounds with nice spaces to be in. Anders explained that people with MS come from all over Denmark and usually stay between 14 days and a month although they are free to go when they want. They can come as many times as they want and there are different treatments available, they can see a specialist doctor, sit and talk with new friends or do activities like horse riding or swimming. There is a place called the castle where people who have been recently diagnosed (usually young people) can go for a week in a small group and just hang out together and share their experiences so far and ask questions if they have any.
It really was terrific and incredible to see such a place, another bonus was that the staff got to ride around the centre on scooters, excellent. We had our picture taken for their newsletter and bidding them all a fond farewell set off to Viby just south of Roskilde to spend the night with Maggie, a friend of Aunty Marion's.
There is someone waving at us Sylvie shouted to me through the wind, I could see her too, a small figure with a Danish flag was standing in the road waving frantically. We rode down to her and Maggie gave us a big hug each and took us inside. Maggie lives in a small commune with Eva, Flemming, Kirsten and Sophie and her dog Frida. They had a beautiful house and garden and all made us feel so welcome. We were pretty physically exhausted from the wind so decided straight away to stay 2 nights. We had forgotten to let Maggie know we are vegetarians so she had cooked us a meaty lasagne, but there were enough people around to eat and enjoy it and Sylv and I made some pasta and we all sat down together to eat with a glass of wine.
Everyone was so lovely and it was a great atmosphere to be in. We finished off the night with Maggie asking us to pick an Angel card..........mine was one to do with new and renewed energy, hurrah and Sylvie chose a card Maggie had never seen before about wisdom and listening to your dreams.
We settled happily into our bed ready for a whole day off. What a super day.
Miles 35.
With a brand new Danish tyre on Sylv's bike we set off to visit the sclerosis centre in Haslev. The receptionist welcomed us but said, oh you have come on the worst day possible, we have 42 new clints arriving today. Still 10 minutes later after a glass of juice we were being introduced to a nurse called Anders (who Sylvie was rather taken with......) who offered to show us around.
What an incredible place, meeting Gitte the previous day and then seeing this wonderful centre in action gave me some real strength after the last annoying days. The centre was beautiful, set in lovely grounds with nice spaces to be in. Anders explained that people with MS come from all over Denmark and usually stay between 14 days and a month although they are free to go when they want. They can come as many times as they want and there are different treatments available, they can see a specialist doctor, sit and talk with new friends or do activities like horse riding or swimming. There is a place called the castle where people who have been recently diagnosed (usually young people) can go for a week in a small group and just hang out together and share their experiences so far and ask questions if they have any.
It really was terrific and incredible to see such a place, another bonus was that the staff got to ride around the centre on scooters, excellent. We had our picture taken for their newsletter and bidding them all a fond farewell set off to Viby just south of Roskilde to spend the night with Maggie, a friend of Aunty Marion's.
There is someone waving at us Sylvie shouted to me through the wind, I could see her too, a small figure with a Danish flag was standing in the road waving frantically. We rode down to her and Maggie gave us a big hug each and took us inside. Maggie lives in a small commune with Eva, Flemming, Kirsten and Sophie and her dog Frida. They had a beautiful house and garden and all made us feel so welcome. We were pretty physically exhausted from the wind so decided straight away to stay 2 nights. We had forgotten to let Maggie know we are vegetarians so she had cooked us a meaty lasagne, but there were enough people around to eat and enjoy it and Sylv and I made some pasta and we all sat down together to eat with a glass of wine.
Everyone was so lovely and it was a great atmosphere to be in. We finished off the night with Maggie asking us to pick an Angel card..........mine was one to do with new and renewed energy, hurrah and Sylvie chose a card Maggie had never seen before about wisdom and listening to your dreams.
We settled happily into our bed ready for a whole day off. What a super day.
Miles 35.
Day 15 - New friends in Næstred
Ohhh it's a bit chilly in here this morning I thought as I wriggled around in my damp slepping bag. I had to force the frozen zip of the tent open, 'Bloody hell - there's frost everywhere Hana!' The whole tent was totally forzen. Oh god, here we go, I thought today was going to be better...
I got another puncture (is there something SERIOUSLY wring with my tyres?) really close to the town so we kept stopping to fill the tyre and eventually the valve fell off. Ugh. I cycled in to town on a flatty and we looked around pretty aimlessly for either a campsite or a hostel (the map said the town had both) but no luck.
Hana stopped a passing cyclist who was so lovely and quickly got on his phone to ring round and see if anyone knew of a campsite. In the meantime, another woman apporached us and seemed almost unable to beleive what she was reading on the back of our ever-chic hi-vis jackets. 'You're riding for MS? I have MS!' Her name was Gitte and after a quick chat about what we were doing she insisted we stayed at her appartment........YES! Thank you thank you thank you!
Gitte and her beautiful collie Martel showed us to her amazing flat (she had studied hotel management and this was clear from her immaculate place!). We spent the evening chatting and eating pizza - bliss. Gitte told us about a MS centre in nearby town called Haslev and suggested we visit tomorrow on our way to our next stop at Viby as it was on the way. The centre is run by the Danish equivalent to the MS Society, and offers all kinds of services to people with MS and their families. So, we looked at the map and realised it would definately be possible to swing by...
Finally, after a few days of annoying setbacks we felt our luck was beginning to change. Gitte (and Martel!) was so kind and the opportunity to meet her and find out about her experience of MS and the Danish approach was really facinating - I think the UK has a lot to learn.
Both looking slighty mad outside 'The Castle' - I think the sun was in our eyes...
Frosty tent!
After another tyre change (yep!) and a bit of slow start (we couldn't quite pull ourselves out of the warm kitchen) we pootled on in search of a town called Næstred. The ride was fine, mostly on cycle paths next to the main road and once the sun was fully up in the sky it was a lovely clear day. Denmark is pretty!I got another puncture (is there something SERIOUSLY wring with my tyres?) really close to the town so we kept stopping to fill the tyre and eventually the valve fell off. Ugh. I cycled in to town on a flatty and we looked around pretty aimlessly for either a campsite or a hostel (the map said the town had both) but no luck.
Hana stopped a passing cyclist who was so lovely and quickly got on his phone to ring round and see if anyone knew of a campsite. In the meantime, another woman apporached us and seemed almost unable to beleive what she was reading on the back of our ever-chic hi-vis jackets. 'You're riding for MS? I have MS!' Her name was Gitte and after a quick chat about what we were doing she insisted we stayed at her appartment........YES! Thank you thank you thank you!
Us with the lovely Gitte!
Gitte and her beautiful collie Martel showed us to her amazing flat (she had studied hotel management and this was clear from her immaculate place!). We spent the evening chatting and eating pizza - bliss. Gitte told us about a MS centre in nearby town called Haslev and suggested we visit tomorrow on our way to our next stop at Viby as it was on the way. The centre is run by the Danish equivalent to the MS Society, and offers all kinds of services to people with MS and their families. So, we looked at the map and realised it would definately be possible to swing by...
Finally, after a few days of annoying setbacks we felt our luck was beginning to change. Gitte (and Martel!) was so kind and the opportunity to meet her and find out about her experience of MS and the Danish approach was really facinating - I think the UK has a lot to learn.
Both looking slighty mad outside 'The Castle' - I think the sun was in our eyes...
About 50 miles today (Hana's mileometer has intermittently given up the ghost so it's appromimations from here on in!)
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